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Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Day two RAFW

So day two and the weariness is starting to set in already, which means unlike yesterday I am not saving the best till last, though my last show was the highlight again.
Nicola Finetti, or as we so fondly nicknamed him on Tangent Digital tonight, "The King of Techno Chic," and in my opinion there is no better way to describe his designs. I would like to take credit for the fitting name, but truthfully it was my creative director Emmanual Giraud who came up with it, but there was no dispute from me or Nicola when we offered him his new title.
His dresses were indeed chic but the techno part is where it becomes ambiguous for me, his sculptural and embellished accentuation certainly had a mod-culture feel to them but the 'tech' part of it went even further.
I was, once again, as I was last night at Aurelio Costarella, blown away by the sheer craftsmanship of his garments. Accordion pleats that stood on their own legs, whether they were on the back, hips or most outstandingly the ribs and decolletage, showed a sheer devotion to the shape of the female form and its movement. Detail was abundant and no matter what the colour, nude, white or black mainly, these dresses had a motive all of their own, that when placed on a living being became a persona of confidence, sensuality, sophistication and modern femme power. We didn't call him a king for nothing
Other highlights of my day, ( keeping it short my bed is mocking me as I type,) were Flannels pristine, sophisticated, effortless chic outfits with stand out pieces in, yes you guessed it leather and Zimmermann whose prints took on a fresh structured form of geometric cut up layering and high waisted figure hugging ingenue elegance.
I also embraced the return of the cropped bodice at Sara Phillips, with loving open arms and the knit lingerie style pieces of New Zealand label Sabatini White.
The standout at the Ready to Wear show, one of my favourite catwalks to discover the next big thing, was Sally Koeswanto, whose pieces persevered beyond strong into the hard edge of rock fashion. Needless to say, yes, there was more than enough leather for my liking.
So there it is, day two in short, there was plenty of print and tailoring but for me the structure and embellishment took the cake again.
Day three looms slightly closer than I would like it to be, with work still yet to be done and so it is with tired eyes, risking becoming exhausted that I leave you once more.
So long, farewell, Auf wiedersehen, good night

1 comment:

  1. Cool, thanks for the overview, off to Tangent to watch some clips.